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EverydayFarmClothing
The everyday andwork clothing of the farmers can be traced back to
medieval times and had to be first and foremost functional. As fore-
runner of the “Tracht” it developed increasingly with a class consci-
ousness. On the one hand, religious lifewas defining, and on especi-
ally high ecclesiastical festivals it was important towear appropriate
clothing. Jewellery, satchels, snuff tobacco boxes, embroideredworks
and precious silk handkerchiefs belonged to this apparel and were
highly coveted. These remarkablehandmadeaccessorieswerepassed
down fromgeneration togeneration. Festive clothingwas a symbol of
wealth and ancestry, even though when “Tracht” was introduced, no
set rules existed for representing a particular valley. The term “Tracht“
isderived from “towear“. That ishow inearlier timesa so-calleddress
codedeveloped thatwas strictly adhered toandbefittingof one’s po-
sition. After all, one wanted to be able tomake the social difference
clear at a glance. As early as the 1600s, the farming population was
prohibited towear “expensive” fursaswell as luxuriousmaterials.
CovetedLuxuryGoods
Travelling peddlers often brought exclusivewares with them andwe-
re familiarwith thenewest formsofworkmanship. Theywere curious-
ly besieged, even thoughmoney for such luxurious articles was often
lacking. Many other well-known travelers such as aristocrats on “the
Grand Tour”, poets andmusicians contributed to themyth of “TYROL”.
Their portrayalsof theTyroleansoften conjuredupastonishment. The
locals‘ colorful native clothing, their cheerfulness and their hospitality
slowlybut surely formedan imageof theTyrolean.
First Seriesof Tracht
Towards the end of the 18th century copper plate engravings depic-
ting the colorful regional festival Tracht weremade by artists such as
TRACHTMEETSDIRNDL
Johann Georg Schädler (1777–1866). This series of engravings sho-
wing Tracht aided in spreading thepopularity of this colorful Tyrolean
clothing. As a result, we can firmly hold, that the colorful Tracht was
by allmeans already beingwornby the farming population as festive
clothing by the late 1700s. The varying adornments of Festival Tracht
symbolized a festive character and a feelingof belonging. The second
half of the19th centurybrought a turningpoint. Theoftenuncomfor-
tablepiecesof clothing (i.e. bodices)wereexchanged for simpler tops,
and insteadof Lederhosenmenwore linen trousers.
Regional Valley Tracht andNational Identity
The original Tracht was reintroduced by the time of the 100-year ce-
lebration of the Tyrolean Fight for Freedom. This was the first time a
whole region within a valley dawned the same Tracht to show a cle-
ar sense of national identity and common origin. On top of that the
newly createdmarching bands and Schützenvereine rifle troopswore
theTracht as their uniform.
Dirndl &Lederhosen–aTyroleanCliché?
Today the Tracht has more or less disappeared from everyday life; it
is however, still frequently worn in villages as festive clothing, espe-
cially for church or family festivities. Dirndls and Tyrolean jackets on
the other hand, have long been discovered by the fashion industry
and increase in popularity. At country weddings, festivals and parties
of all kinds a decorative Dirndl and handsome Lederhosen dare not
bemissing! Today, a lot of what fashion designers have to offer has
nothing to dowith the original Tracht, but one can see an increasing
trend that appeals to youngpeople. And so it is today, that Tracht, just
as the modern Dirndl are both loved equally – both variations have
something in common: they are smart and dress their wearer
decidedlywell.
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Traditional TyroleanCostumehasalwaysbeen themost commonpieceof clothing.
It firstbecamepopularas
Tyrolwas takennoticeof by itsneighbouring countriesand theTyroleanswere recognized for their loveof colorful
clothing. Romantically, these colorful garmentshappened to fitharmoniously into the cliché characteristicof the
“dashing“ Tyrolean: alwaysmerry, cheerful,witha loveof their fatherland, andalthoughabit “backwoods”, byall
meansendearing ... ||
MONIKAFRENZEL
